Valpolicella DOC Classico 2019
Falstaff 92
Wine Description
Secondo Marco's Valpolicella Classico is the estate's statement that the lightest wine of the valley deserves the same seriousness as Amarone. Marco Speri grows the classic trio of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, as is traditional for the appellation, on his 17 hectares in Fumane, ferments spontaneously with native yeasts and gives the wine time before release rather than hurrying it to market.
The result is Valpolicella with an uncommon spine: crunchy morello cherry and redcurrant, white pepper, dried herbs and a stony, savoury finish with fine tannins and bright acidity. The 2019 has grown expressive with a few years in bottle and is in a fine place now. Serve at 14 to 16 °C with salumi, bigoli in salsa, pasta e fagioli or Venetian sarde in saor; it also handles roast chicken and grilled fish of the meatier kind. No decanting required, just honest food and company.
Winery
Secondo Marco is the Fumane estate of Marco Speri, who founded it in 2008 after leaving his family's historic Valpolicella house to work in his own name. He farms 17 hectares in the Classica zone and bottles around 85,000 bottles a year, training the vines on a pergola he redesigned into a Y shape to give the bunches air and even light. The cellar follows the same independent streak: spontaneous fermentations, long aging in large casks and wines released only when ready, from Valpolicella Classico through Ripasso to Amarone and the rare Riserva Fumetto.
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