Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2013
Decanter 90Gambero Rosso 3 Bicchieri
Wine Description
Zymè's Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is Celestino Gaspari's reading of the great Veronese red, and it leans on the full native palette: Corvina 35%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella 15%, Oseleta 10%, Croatina 5% and Molinara 5%, an old style blend few producers still keep. The grapes dry on racks through the winter, as the appellation requires, before a slow fermentation and long aging in wood.
At 15.5% it is powerful but never clumsy: black cherry and prune, cocoa, liquorice and a savoury, earthy undertow, with the grip of Oseleta keeping the finish firm and dry. Now over a decade from harvest, the 2013 is in its prime drinking window, the fruit shading toward dried cherry and tobacco. Decant for an hour and serve at 18 °C with boiled and roasted meats, pastissada de caval, or aged Grana Padano and Parmigiano Reggiano at the end of the meal.
Winery
Zymè is the project of Celestino Gaspari, who learned winemaking at the side of Giuseppe Quintarelli, his father in law, before starting his own label in 1999. The cellar sits at Mattonara in San Pietro in Cariano, built into a sandstone quarry worked since the fifteenth century, and draws on about 30 hectares scattered across the Valpolicella Classica, the Soave and Durello hills and the Colli Berici. The name is Greek for yeast, a nod to ferment and transformation, and the wines follow suit: native grapes, patient aging and around 150,000 bottles a year across a broad range.
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