
Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico “Gioé” 2013
Falstaff 94Wine Enthusiast 88
Wine Description
Gioè is Santa Sofia's top Amarone, the bottling this two century old house reserves for its hardest selection of fruit. It is raised with unusual patience, around 42 months in barrique, before it is bottled and rested. The grapes are the classical Veronese trio of Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella, dried through the winter months in the appassimento that concentrates sugar, acid and aroma before a slow fermentation.
The result is classical Amarone rather than jam: dried cherry and plum, menthol and underbrush, sweet spice and a silky texture over a dry, warm finish. The 2013 is squarely in the middle of its drinking window and in no rush at all; give it a short decant before serving. Serve at 18 °C with braised or roasted red meats, pastissada de caval or aged Monte Veronese; in Venice it earns its place beside fegato alla veneziana.
Winery
Santa Sofia has made wine since 1811 at Pedemonte di San Pietro in Cariano, in cellars built under and around a Palladian villa raised for Marcantonio Serego in 1565. The Begnoni family bought the house in 1967 and still runs it, farming 69 hectares in three areas, Montegradella in the Valpolicella Classica, Briago in the Valpantena and Pozzolengo near Lake Garda, for a production of about half a million bottles. The interpretation is openly classical: measured Valpolicella, patient Amarone and the cru Gioè at the top of the pyramid, wines made to age and to sit at the table.
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