“From Black to White” Veneto IGT 2022
Gambero Rosso 2 Bicchieri
Wine Description
From Black to White is one of the oddest and most charming wines in the Valpolicella: a white built around Rondinella Bianca, an albino mutation of the black Rondinella that Celestino Gaspari recovered and replanted, completed by Kerner, Gold Traminer and Incrocio Manzoni. The name tells the story, a black grape family turned white wine.
The 2022 is aromatic and dry: white peach, citrus and alpine herbs from the Kerner and Traminer side, a floral lift, then a saline, faintly bitter finish that keeps it firmly at the table. It has enough texture to stand beside food beyond the usual aperitivo. Serve it at 10 to 12 °C, no decanting, with sarde in saor, baccalà mantecato on grilled polenta, risotto with spring vegetables, lake fish or young cheeses; it also makes an uncommon opening to a dinner that will end with Amarone.
Winery
Zymè is the project of Celestino Gaspari, who learned winemaking at the side of Giuseppe Quintarelli, his father in law, before starting his own label in 1999. The cellar sits at Mattonara in San Pietro in Cariano, built into a sandstone quarry worked since the fifteenth century, and draws on about 30 hectares scattered across the Valpolicella Classica, the Soave and Durello hills and the Colli Berici. The name is Greek for yeast, a nod to ferment and transformation, and the wines follow suit: native grapes, patient aging and around 150,000 bottles a year across a broad range.
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