Amarone della Valpolicella DOCG Classico 2016
Falstaff 95
Wine Description
Secondo Marco's Amarone della Valpolicella Classico shows what patience means in Fumane. Marco Speri dries the grapes for around 120 days, ferments spontaneously with native yeasts, then leaves the wine on its skins for over 90 days, a maceration few producers would attempt. The 2016 blend is Corvinone 45%, Corvina 40% and Rondinella 15%, aged 42 months in 50 hectolitre oak casks and another year in bottle, arriving at 16% with its balance intact.
The glass gives small red and black berries, spice and lightly toasted coffee, ruby with garnet edges, deep and enveloping yet finishing dry and firm. It drinks superbly now and will not stop soon. Decant it for an hour and serve at 18 °C with braised beef, game, pastissada de caval or aged Monte Veronese; in Venice, fegato alla veneziana is the natural call. An Amarone of structure over sweetness.
Winery
Secondo Marco is the Fumane estate of Marco Speri, who founded it in 2008 after leaving his family's historic Valpolicella house to work in his own name. He farms 17 hectares in the Classica zone and bottles around 85,000 bottles a year, training the vines on a pergola he redesigned into a Y shape to give the bunches air and even light. The cellar follows the same independent streak: spontaneous fermentations, long aging in large casks and wines released only when ready, from Valpolicella Classico through Ripasso to Amarone and the rare Riserva Fumetto.
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