Amarone della Valpolicella DOC Riserva “Cent’Anni 1907” 2006
James Suckling 94
Wine Description
The Amarone Riserva is Trabucchi's rarest wine, held back in the cellar far beyond the norm before release. It follows the estate's classical method: organically farmed, Corvina led fruit from the stony slopes of Monte Tenda in the Illasi valley, dried through the winter as the appassimento method requires, then given the long wood and bottle aging the riserva category demands.
The 2006 has reached a fully mature stage, and it should be treated with an old wine's courtesy: stand the bottle upright a day ahead, pour gently off any sediment and let the tertiary register speak, dried fig, leather, sweet spice, autumn leaves and a long balsamic finish.
Serve at 16 to 18 °C with slow food or none at all: braised game, pastissada de caval, a board of long aged cheeses, or simply a late glass where the wine itself is the argument.
Winery
Trabucchi d'Illasi farms the slopes of Monte Tenda in the Illasi valley, Valpolicella's eastern arm, where the family began making wine in the mid 1920s. The estate was an early convert to organic farming, certified since 1993, and works guyot trained vines on stony moraine soils without herbicides, with Franco Bernabei consulting in the cellar the property built in 2002. In recent years the estate passed to the Dal Forno brothers, who keep the Trabucchi name and its quiet, patient style: Valpolicella and Amarone that lean on freshness, herbs and fine tannin rather than sheer weight.
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